Edinburgh: Sabbatical day 3

 July 31, Day three: I woke this morning feeling rested. I spent 20 minutes meditating then dressed and went down to the second floor for coffee. I could hear the roar of the crowd of tourists in the dining room long before I arrived. The shear number of people, most of them Italian, overwhelmed me instantly. I was wearing my mask, but no one else was. I entered the room cautiously and decided to get a quick cup of coffee and exit back to my room. But even that was impossible with the push and butting of people likewise anxious for a cup of coffee. I left and went to the floor below, the first floor, where more coffee and some food was available. But there the coffee machine was empty of beans. I made do with a cup of hot water, a bag of tea (which I could have made in my room) and a bowl of yogurt with fruit compote and dashed as fast as possible for the stairs and my room several floors up. By the time I arrived in my room the tea was cool, but I drank it nonetheless. I summoned up the courage to go back, finding the space far less crowded as that tour group had moved on, I made cup of coffee. It was weak and cool by the time I got back to my room. I went back for another cup of coffee, this time made a little stronger and with hot milk, and it was, well, almost okay. 

Finally well caffeinated I left to walk to St. John’s for Sunday worship. I never, ever, go to worship while on vacation. But, I really wanted to worship at St. John’s, a Scottish Episcopal Church where my seminary classmate Markus is the rector. I was able to be present, to worship, (instead of criticize, which is why I don’t go - criticizing the liturgical efforts of others is definitely NOT worshipful and sadly something I can’t seem to not do). Anyway, I enjoyed the service, even the sermon, which was preached by someone who’s last name is Boyd. My ancestors are Boyd’s, from the Ayershire area. So, perhaps way way back he and I have an ancestor in common. The two most common family names in Scotland, or so I’ve read, are Stuart and Boyd, and these were friendly families for a time, and then rivals. Guess which family “won” the rivalry….(Mary, Queen of Scots, was from the Stuart family)….

After church Markus and I had lunch and talked church shop talk. Sometimes I wonder why anyone is clergy. 

I left Markus and his sweet dog and headed off for another day of walking through Edinburgh. Markus gave me excellent directions and I found my way to the Royal Mile with ease. From there I walked a good distance to Holyrood, the residence of British royalty when in Edinburgh (which isn’t often)…and the home of Mary, Queen of Scots, back in the day before she sought refuge with her sister, Elizabeth, in England, and then 19 years later was beheaded because she was a threat to throne. Curiously, her son became king when Elizabeth died, and all royalty since has had a blood connection to Mary….some say she won after all. 

My visit to Holyrood is the only touristy thing I have done, so far, on this trip. But it was on my list of to-do’s and well worth my time. I’m not a huge fan of British royalty, but this was rich in history beyond royalty of Scotland and England. It also included a great history lesson on the complicated relationship between Scotland and England and the royalty between them. 

Following the tour I wandered back to the hotel climbing a steep (very steep) hill through an old cemetery. I was shocked at its decay and the many tombstones that had fallen over and were uncared for. All of these people were once family members, people who were important to someone. And now, forgotten?

But aside from that, it was an interesting walk through more history.

I returned to the hotel slightly amused that I now had a relatively decent sense of where I was and how to get to the hotel without resorting to goggle maps. I rested for a bit and then walked down the street to an Italian restaurant for dinner. Caprese salad, pasta with smoke salmon, and a glass of Chianti. A delicious meal and nice way to end my day in Edinburgh. Tomorrow I check out of the hotel and head back to Glasgow.